Photos 18, 19 & 20. :: How To Do Deck Planking On Wooden Model Ships. However planking models with a ―bluff‖ or ―rounded‖ bow can be a challenge—models such as Endeavour and Bounty fall into this category. You could fit the false deck into position after the keel and bulkhead frames have been glued in position and before you start the hull planking. 7. The planks that runs around the edge of the ship that butt against the bulwark are called the margin planks. It is usual to carry out tapering on the lower edge of each plank and it may sometimes, (although not usually), be necessary to carry out some bevelling on the upper edge of some planks. the plank should touch the full face of each frame as it is bent around them). Here’s a good Article about how to do it at Modelers Central…. On the edges of the quarter deck (2) glue the margin plank of 16mm wide . This method is presented in more detail later. Shop Artwox new release wood decks for plastic models ships, eg. When the deck planks are laid over the false deck the thin black line to achieved to simulate the caulking is very effective. Where this is done it is to facilitate the construction of Bulwarks at a later stage but in any case, it will be parallel to the line of the deck. 6. When a deck plank meets a margin plank at a curve, it is joggled. Make several light strokes to set the course followed by a heavier one to make the cut. The rows of planks will be moved of 20mm. Figures 2 & 3 below show two butt patterns used. The diagrams below show how the problem can be solved by reducing three plank widths to two. Deck Planking I By Bob Filipowski See “Planking I”, Page 2 Newsletter of the Midwest Model Shipwrights www.midwestmodelshipwrights.com April 2014 COMMODORE, Bob Filipowski, opened the March 2014 meeting promptly at 7:15 and noted that we had 29 hands aboard. We will proceed as follows: Paso 3.- Muy bién hasta ahora. Spend time with sandpaper on the high spots and use wood filler such as ―Wattyl Wood Stop Putty‖ on the low spots. The disadvantage is that you will have to fit the deck planks to the false deck while it is on the model. Still, cherry is well suited wood ship models for frames, keels and planking for plank-on-frame models as well as various details, deck furniture, gunwales, hatches, figure heads etc. On this model, the bulkheads are 1 11/16″ apart on their centerlines. In a wooden model ship the deck planks are laid on what is called a false deck. For our purposes, we always assume that the middle (―midship‖) frames are the largest and it is at this part of the model that planks are at their full width. From the information provided you will be aware that when the tapering of planks take place no plank should be reduced to less than half its width. The butt joints of the planks were staggered as they were laid along the deck length. If this method is used, it is important to run a trial with a few planks on a scrap of plywood to ensure that the clear  ―Polyurethane‖ Varnish which you will be using to finish the deck with does not dissolve the black col our when it is later applied. Both ends of each plank should now be bent, allowing them to follow their natural course along the frames. Do any of you guys know of a good supplier for wooden strips for deck planking. The false deck will be part of the 2mm laser cut plywood in the kit. The photographs in this article are of a model of Resolutionof 1772: one of Captain Cook’s ships for his second and third voyages. The following method to simulate the caulking on a model is suggested. Kind regards, Beau. To achieve a smooth finish that does not cause the graphite from the pencil used to simulate the caulking, use a small piece of glass with at least one edge clean cut and sharp. The diagrams show the ideal pattern for cutting the ends of the planks, but, at a pinch, simply reducing two planks to half width at the first or second frame then continuing with a single plank, which is itself then reduced to half width right at the bow, and with merely a square butt joint between the first pair and the forward addition will do the job. To stay up to date join our mailing list. There are notches in the false deck to allow this to occur. As mentioned previously the deck planks of a real ship were laid in lengths of either 6, 9 or 12 feet. On a number of ship model kits, the instructions simply call for the deck planks to be laid as full-length strips over the false deck. Part Number: MS0375. In the case of those models in which the ―upper‖ or ―weather‖ deck is in either two or three distinct  sections, at differing levels, then the first plank is commonly run along the line of the ―middle‖ or ―main‖  deck then follows its natural course both ―fore‖ and ―aft‖. Alternatively, you could fit the false deck after you have finished planking the hull. Each plank must be individually shaped and placed, using glue that binds nearly instantly, leaving little room for mistakes. As a panel beater would, run your fingers over the hull and identify high and low spots. Either is acceptable. Have ended up using a clear matte aerosol spray over the deck. Proceed with care, taking the time to read and if necessary re-read the manufacturer’s instructions. The kit is supplied with a set of Britan-nia, brass, and wooden fittings to elim- In particular, it must be emphasised that any measurements or part or part numbers used  are purely for the purpose of illustrative example and must not be confused with part numbers or measurements for a particular kit. 5 or 6 or 7), and then compare that measurement with the distance from the deck level to the bottom of the keel on a forward frame such say (No. Planking a model boat is a difficult and time-consuming process. Once you have finished planking the deck do not use sandpaper to finish the deck. The angle at which the margin plank and the deck plank meet is called the snipe. For example - if the planks are (say) 5mm wide then the distance down the edge of each frame to your pencil mark should be (say) 55mm or 60mm or 65mm etc., but the same distance on each. The planks need to have their ends rest on the bulkheads, so we’ll start there. Repeat for the other side of the planks. Use a plank and lay it over the frames in various positions to check the bevel (i.e. If your model has bulkhead frames that come above the deck—the bulkhead horns—then you will be required to fit the false deck before planking the hull. This is a general guide only and is to be used in conjunction with the instructions supplied with your individual kit. When you have identified the position of the first plank, glue it into position using a PVA glue and without any tapering. The deck planks of a real ship were made from teak and were laid in lengths of either 6, 9 or 12 feet and varying in width from 6 to 12 inches. You can make do with 12 but 24 are better and most modellers who start with 12 order another packet. Combining elements of history, technology, and craftsmanship, model ship building offers a unique finished product that the builder can showcase with pride. Read more. On a real ship, the trennells were the pegs that held the deck planks in place. To finish the deck apply a couple of coats of clear satin or matt polyurethane varnish. There are a few Plank Benders available ranging from Hand Held ―crimp‖ types, a set of rollers to bend the planks or an ―electric‖ plank bender. The simplest one is the Hand Held—Light Duty plank bender which is very effective. The second pair of planks should now be temporarily attached, using planking screws, at the positions you have marked on the midship frames - but without glue. Please take your time and resist the temptation to start planking before the hull is satisfactorily ―faired‖. At the bow and at the stern you will need to trim the planks where they meet the bulwark. By lightly crimping the plank a very effective curve is produced. Hold the hull firmly and scrape the glass over the deck planks. 3. As with many things in model shipbuilding, there is no one right or wrong way—just different ways to achieve the same goal. Many of the models which feature below deck open gunports require that the first plank follows the line of the gunports and it will run immediately above or below a row of gunports. If you spend a few minutes with a tape measure or a piece of string and a ruler you’ll soon see why it is necessary to taper the planks to a narrower width at either one or both ends. In most kits, the placement of the first plank can be quite critical to the final outcome. The general rule is “With the snipe (angle) more than twice the plank’s thickness, the plank will be joggled into the margin plank with a butt not less than half the plank’s width. Hyper-Realistic Plank Detail Shop ready for school toys & games. The plank-on-bulkhead hull construction with laser-cut parts offers a unique building experience. Use a Cutting Mat or plywood board to protect the surface you are using to cut the planks. While the ―midship‖ frames will require little adjustment, those toward the bow and stern will require more. The jig is ideal to use to cut your deck planks to the desired length for the scale of your model or to your chosen length. A piece of broomstick with sandpaper glued to it will make it easier to shape those frames with a hollow curve. When we talk about “a plank” or “the plank” or “the Planks” we are normally dealing with a pair of planks - one each side. Lastly, we will consider the joggling of deck planks. By doing this all planks will arrive at the Keel together. We will deal with these in order then finish with a few suggestions on deck planking. Useful information will also be found in ―Ship Modelling Simplified‖ by Mastini and other How-to-do-it books. Finally, carefully use a pen with Indian ink to fill the indentations. Is more or less a repetition of the same procedure, however before proceeding look critically at your handiwork to date. Laying the deck planks in their full length along the deck and using a pencil to mark the pattern, or. Photos 18, 19 & 20. This is a very neat modification of the “Model Shipways” kit plans, that were reduced to half their original scale. This leaflet describes only one approach to planking – different modellers develop their own techniques and there are other ways of doing it but we consider that the methods described here are a good starting point for the first time modeller. Photo 2 shows a false deck where the bulkhead frames do come up above the deck. 2. They were made of oak or other hardwood. Part of the reason I chose the Bluenose as my first POB build is because the hull planking is relatively straight forward. Photo 1 shows a false deck where the bulkhead frames of the hull do not come above the deck. However, the deck plank width is usually 3, 4 or 5mm. The first plank you place will determine how each other plank is affixed, so take your time and apply it properly, according to your model's instructions. Some kits come with a decorative timber plywood sheet that is laser scribed to simulate the deck planks. For those who fall into neither category we have produced this leaflet, however, please bear in mind the following points: 1. Follow the kit maker ’s instructions carefully in this regard. Day 32. While they can be … You will then plank the deck later—Photo 5. In purely theoretical terms, if the measurement at frame No 3 is (say) 80mm and at frame No 5 it is (say) 120mm then each plank needs to be narrowed down to 2/3 (80/120) of its full width at frame No 3. Once the planks were laid in position on the deck the gaps between the planks were sealed by a process called caulking. > Modeling News Ideally, the planks should be cut into 100mm lengths with the joint staggered so that they are in line only every 3 or 4 planks. Next, on the three midship frames, mark a position approximately halfway to the keel- the same distance down on each frame and a distance which is a multiple of a plank width. That’s the theory - now for the practical side of it!! 4 - Preparing the Planking of the Deck To prepare the planking of decks, glue in the centreline of decks (1) a strip . Retail Price: $12.49. A more detailed method is called joggling which will be presented later. 3. Price: $49.00 & FREE Shipping: This fits your . Planking can then be laid is regular white or carpenter's glue, with all the forgiveness that allows. In Photo 6 the modeller has chosen to fit the false deck before planking the hull and will plank the deck later. In a wooden model ship the deck planks are laid on what is called a false deck. De acuerdo a nuestro patrón 1 3 5 2 4, a la derecha de la traca 5 deberemos poner una If the plastic deck is multi-part (for example lower decks of Victory model or USS Constitution) it is needed to check placing veneer deck before. Discover school supplies, arts & … 1.0 out of 5 stars No Colour inside. Towards the bow, they will require ―tapering‖ or narrowing by an amount depending on the particular ship. The other deck planks were then laid adjacent and parallel to this plank and on either side moving towards the bulwarks (sides) of the ship. Using a file, fine rasp or coarse sandpaper on a wooden block, or a combination of all of these, bevel the edges of the frames so that the planks will come in contact with a full thickness of each frame – not just a sharp leading or trailing edge. Deck Planking. Highly recommended are the instructional  DVDs available from Modeller’s Shipyard on Hull Planking. Ship Modeling for Beginners. To finish the deck apply a couple of coats of clear satin or matt polyurethane varnish. Two types of false decks are shown below. However, most kits on the market will come with a stock of timber to be used as the deck planking. The good thing is it covers a lot (hull planknig, deck planking, preparations) and is nice to read. Ships on Deck important that you check to see Photo 4 shows the false deck fitted to this model. Often the nails supplied in kits are not brass but brass coated, there are nowhere near enough supplied to nail all the planks and to be quite frank, nailed planks often look terrible. The jig shown in Figure 1 below can be easily made from scrap timber. The effect of black ―Caulking‖ between planks can be achieved in a number of ways, the most popular being: - 1. use sandpaper to finish the deck. View the Deck Planking DVD for further tips and techniques. By making the crimps closer together a more rounded curve is produced. Fine planning job, mate. The overall effect needs to be pleasing to the eye. Report abuse. arizona, yamato, bismarck, varyag. 2. It is very easy to forget this simple step as you enthusiastically plank the deck. In ―real‖ shipbuilding it was usual to start planking at the keel and work upwards, however, in model ship building we usually start the first plank in one of three positions: 1. You will notice that this is not a fully framed model, as it is to be fully planked except for one small ‘window’ on the port side (see page 6). > Modeling Tips & Tricks. Historically there were several methods of joggling. planking has begun; planking has been completed on the quarterdeck. Score lines: 5/32" (2.5mm). Also, remember that old tradesman’s motto ―measure twice and cut once‖. Slots for mounting hardware were pre-cut into the hull. Ascertain from the plans and/or the kit maker’s instructions, the position of the first plank(s). Adding planks will create the hull of your model boat. Alternatively, you may simply choose to use one particular pattern. The thickness of the planking varied from deck to deck. Make sure this fits by entering your model number. On your model, you can either choose to lay a king plank—Photo 10, and plank the deck in your desired pattern, or you can simply draw a line down the centre of the deck and plank either side of this line in your desired pattern. Continue the above process carefully shaping the planks that meet the bulwark—Photo 16 & 17. It is probable that some tapering will be required as planks go towards the stern but it is also quite possible that the distance, deck to the bottom of the keel, will be greater at the position of the last couple of frames than it is at ―midships‖. It assures an accu-rate hull form, and develops an under-standing of how real ships are con-structed. To simulate the caulking of the deck on a model there are a number of approaches that can be applied. Check again. Bevelling is required in the case of fairly thick planking and/or sharply curved frames as in the attached sketch which has been exaggerated for clarity. This could be fiddly. Photo 1 shows a false deck where the bulkhead frames of the hull do not come above the deck. It is probable that if the modeller were to mark out the plank at all, he would do it according to practices of the time, which would suggest that the deck plank was laid in broader strakes than is generally supposed". Once you have laid the planks in position make sure you run a chisel blade over the length of the planks to remove any air bubbles that may be under the veneer strips—Photo 15. Mark one edge of each deck plank with a black marker pen. She looks great. Quite a few of the models shown in our catalogue fall into this category. The ship doesn’t have some of the complex curves that you’ll find on larger ships. You Save: $2.50 (20%) DECK PLANKING SHEET, Basswood 4 W x 24 L x 1/8" Scored Width 1 pack. You will likely place the first plank at deck level. This approach has the advantage of adding strength to the whole hull. I have a modern painting that shows window panes in the forward two of the ports. To achieve this effect refer to the staggering butt pattern chosen and draw very light pencil lines across the deck. To stay up to date join our mailing list. Run a trial with a few planks to ensure that the marker pen does not weep into the timber or that the clear polyurethane varnish that you will be using to finish the deck does not dissolve the black colour when it is later applied. This is a personal preference. The width of the plank for our 18th Century model is between 8 inches and 14 inches scaled to on average 5.82mm however not all deck planks on a ship are of equal width so any width between 4.23mm and 7.41mm would be acceptable. It is time to start planking the hull of the Model Shipways Bluenose. To create a more realistic look to your model you may wish to simulate the trennells. In metric terms, these lengths would be 1.8m, 2.7m or 3.6m and widths of 15cm to 30cm. The monthly newsletter includes: > Upcoming modeling events Thanks. planking procedure while explaining the reasons why it is done this way and what can occur if it is done another way. > New release products Included are a set of computer drafted, color coded plans, laser cut gun carriages and casted carronades, milled stock for deck clamps, wales and bulkward planking. The different approaches determine how the bulwark is established on the particular model. 3. Dealing with the top half first, it will be fairly obvious where tapering will be required. Checking the corresponding measurements (port and starboard) on the first and last frames should show up any errors. If you do have a hollow spot on one (or more) frame(s) it can be built up using slivers of timber. To achieve a smooth finish that does not cause the graphite from the pencil used to simulate the caulking, use a small piece of glass with at least one edge clean cut and sharp. Alternatively, you may simply choose to use a length of either 80mm or 100mm as this would not look out of place for the range of scale models on the market. Regardless of the method used for caulking, it is also worth considering whether to ―Nail‖ the deck. It comes down to your own personal preference. A couple of approaches are presented below: 1. The staggering effect can be achieved either by: 1. Hull planking technique 1 is for Bluff Bowed vessels and Hull planking technique 2 is for Sharp Bowed vessels. Photo 1 shows a false deck where the bulkhead frames of the hull, The suggested method to simulate caulking. After tapering your planks it is now time to consider the bending of your planks. The bending of the planks on models with a ―sharp‖ or ―sleek‖ bow is not normally a problem — models such as the Flying Fish or Cutty Sark fall into this category. This has the effect of creating an exceptionally clean and smooth deck. Trial fit the planks into place—Photo 13—and fractionally fit if needed. 5. 4. The width of these planks will vary depending upon the scale of the model you are building. As the deck planks were continually scrubbed with a stone and bleached by the sun they became a light grey to white colour. As you have a complete surface on which to lay the 2nd planking and not just the frames, you will almost certainly find that the second planking is easier than the first. To simulate this colour on a model the timber used for deck planking in a kit is a decorative timber veneer such as boxwood, silver ash or tanganika. 4. 3. The plywood can be painted black before the deck planks are applied and a slight gap left between them. From research, it seems like deck plank lengths vary wildly, based on available materials and the construction of the ship. 2 or No. Here’s the Main Deck before I start… Main deck. The book ―Authentic Planking for Ship Models‖ by Tyler is recommended. Caulking involved forcing a quantity of oakum (a rough fibre), or old untwisted ropes, into the gaps where the planks are joined. Gather the deck planks in your kit into bundles of 6 to 8. Some research can clarify the plank length to use on your model and then to apply the relevant scale to determine the deck plank length you will use. Like many tasks in model building, deck planking does seem on the surface to be seen as a chore at best and downright "to be avoided at all cost" at the other extreme. Step 3.- OK. Low prices, Fast&Secure, Worldwide shipping in 24hrs Repeat this process for all the planks as you progress across the deck. There are now four planks in place, two on each side, and these will probably be the only ones which do not require any tapering or shaping. Am using basswood strip where the teak wpuld have been used and a mahogony rubbing strip. Rubber bands, dressmaking pins, ―G‖ Clamps and spring clips all have their uses but the vast majority of our model builders use our Planking Screw Clamps and love them. Apply a dark soft lead pencil along the edge and end of bundled planks. There are four basic steps to a successful planking job:-. Reviewed in the United Kingdom on October 3, 2018. Unfortunately, most kit manufacturers tend to skim over the subject in their instructions, assuming that the modeller is already experienced or has read a book on the subject. Use bull dog clips to hold them aligned together—Photo 8. curves planks along the outer rim of the deck are called margin pieces. Repeat this for all the bundles of deck planks you need to cover the false deck—Photo 9. Electric Plank Bender for Hobby Model Ships by Model Shipways - MS7205. Leave a slight gap between the deck planks which is later filled with black sewing thread which is  first pulled through rigging wax. Holding planks in place while the glue dries can be quite tricky. In this article we will be considering the decks most widely found in wooden model kits. The scale of the model is 1:48. Mark a centre line down the deck and plank from this line to the sides (―Bulwarks‖). Very effective. Planks are 80mm long. Cutting you deck planks to an appropriate length. Walnut It is one of the most beautiful domestic wood species. This is done by marking (with a sharp point) indentations which are then touched with Indian ink. Again using planking screws, temporarily attach them to the rest of the frames making fine adjustments if necessary to ensure that each is a mirror image of the other. Once again, it is best to experiment first using a piece of scrap plywood and some scrap decking material before using it on the model. This is acceptable, however staggering the deck planks will enhance your model’s overall appearance. Planks should be allowed to largely follow their natural coarse with the gaps being filled in later but bearing in mind that the aim is for the final couple of planks to run nicely parallel to the bottom of the keel. While they can be brass nailed, this is usually fairly unsatisfactory. Two types of false decks are shown below. This approach also has the advantages of not weeping into the deck plank and is not affected by clear polyurethane varnish. This is the simplest method of butting the deck planks to the bulwark. The whole process of levelling and checking is known as ―fairing‖ and is extremely important to ensure that when planked, the hull is free of bumps and hollows. Each side of the hull now has two ―bands‖ to be planked - an upper and a lower. This has the effect of creating an exceptionally clean and smooth deck. The false deck can be painted black before the deck planks are applied and a slight gap left between them. Use a steel-edged ruler and a hobby knife or ―Maxi Cutter‖ and cut with and not against the grain. Decking of large craft consisted of comparatively narrow planks that either run parallel to the centerline or are curves to conform to the curvature of the ships sides. Conversely, perhaps at the stern when planks need to be spread out, you can turn one plank into two. Im reaching the point in the Discovery build where I have to concern myself with gun ports. Each of these tools are presented in the Tools section of our catalogue. In general terms, a bluff-bowed ship such as the ―Endeavour‖ will require less tapering than a sharp bowed vessel such as the ―Flying Fish‖. I’ve never planked a hull before. On the other hand if your model has a false deck where the bulkhead frames of the hull do not come above the deck then you have a choice—either to fit the false deck before planking the hull and plank the deck later or to plank the hull and plank the false deck and fit it later—Photo 6. I am looking for a good supplier of wooden planks in 1:200 scale to do the main deck of the Japanese Battle Ship Yamato. Uncut Wood Deck with Individually Tinted Planks for Model Ships Brand: Scaledecks.com. This will occur at the bow and the stern of the ship. This should be interesting. To do this simply fit 3 or 4 planks parallel to the king plank or the centre planking line—Photo 11. Amazon Customer. These distances divided by the number of planks gives you the width of each plank at each frame. Your Price: $9.99. Everything Ive read says that the Discovery had 10 4 pound guns but all the plans show 14 ports(7 per side). The Oneida hull size is 24 x 6 x 6. The pattern of butt joints depends on the period of the ship. 2. Most beginners to model Ship Building have some concerns regarding planking, however, provided that some serious thought is given to the subject so that the principles are clearly understood, then it should not prove overly difficult. Sometimes this is not sufficiently drastic and you will still be approaching the bottom of the hull at the bow end before reaching the keel midships. In this video I show you how I go about painting a ships deck, in this case Titanic, and overcome the single painted plastic deck look. Please visit Loren Perry and buy the best Ship Model Photo Etch parts at – Gold Medal Models Wooden deck on the fantail of Loren Perry’s 1934 Arizona, built from the Revell 1/429 kit One of the three colors is a paint, the other two are from Floquil’s range of model “stains”. Leave a slight gap which is later filled with heavy black sewing thread which is first pulled through rigging wax. Availability: In Stock- Ready to Ship. If appropriate to the ship and the scale of the model, I set up beams to put dcamber in the plywood. PLANK FIXING. Make sure that both planks (left and right or ―port‖ and ―starboard‖) follow the same line and are a mirror image of each other. Once the tar had set and any residue removed, a thin black line was showing between the deck planks. According to our pattern 1 3 5 2 4, to the right of the 5 plank, we will have a plank on line 2, and to the left, a plank on line 3. In some cases, it will have its top edge up to 5mm to 10mm below the deck level. Learn How To Do The Deck Planking on Wooden Model Ship With This Comprehensive Build Guide From Modelers Central. The diagrams below are not of your ship or any particular model.
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