I have the exact same problem as Art. Search for Hayward Salt Cell Troubleshooting on the New KensaQ.com. Matthew, earlier this summer I was going nuts because I had the right amount of salt but no chlorine was being generated. Generic Flow Switch for Hayward®/Goldline® Salt Systems Features: Generic Replacement for: All Hayward®/Goldline® flow switches: Hayward®/Goldline® Aqua Logic®, AquaPlus®, AquaRite®, AquaRite Pro®, AquaRite XL®, Blue Haven®, H40®, LeverEdge Guardian®, Mineral Springs®, Naturesoft®, Pro Logic®, SmartPure®, Splash SP-40®, SplashCLEAR®, and SwimPure Plus® The amps are all correct and I wonder if I need to replace board? In this condition, chlorine production is interrupted. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone. Their techs know the product better than anyone else out there. I tell my client’s, the stabilizer is sunscreen for your pool’s water but too much of it isn’t a good thing. Reinstall the cell and check (see note below). 2. When I follow the steps it just shows 000 on the screen. My aqua-rite generator have blank display screen with the power light on but no other lights…can someone advise on the potential cause. 3-5 years is a typical age. If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3. I am 90% sure this is the issue though. We just bought the house and the previous owner may have replaced with the wrong cell I guess but…seems to work ok. The unit will start normally and chlorinate but after 20 minutes it will shut down and new cycle would not start, i have to manually do diagnostics and start the new cycle. … When these LEDs are ON, the salt level is 2300 ppm or below. Try shocking the pool and switching the system to super chlorinate. I’ve been adding powder chlorine, that too disappears in a day or two. I’ve never heard of that issue? Aquarite AQR9. Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position. Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. Instant Salinity: -0.00 Quickly goes to -1.40 then right back to -0.00 when cell turns on. is it the cell or the PC board? 2) Verify input voltage with a voltmeter Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED Flashing or ON. Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. I can’t see any of the diagnostic values. Could that be the problem? T-5, T-15, etc A solution to the declining salt level problem that then shuts down the salt cell may be to leave your pool pump on for maybe 72 hours to allow multiple sampling cycles to occur without interruption. I have a T-9 cell , I the check salt and inspect cell light comes on I brought the T-9 to pool store they said it’s working good also my salt levels at the pool store said good readings I reset because it shows low salt and it works fine for a bit then the lights come on again ?? Check salt and inspect cell light staying on. Somehow the panel reset the type and I missed it and thought it was automatic. We recommend that you check the salt level with a water test kit to ensure accuracy. The check salt, check cell lights on and generating light off. My chlorine has dropped to almost 0 so I’m assuming that means it isn’t running. Were they OEM replacement board or Pureline aftermarket? Desired output 100 Put in new cell a week ago and things chlorine was coming out. Have you recalibrated the salt level in the diagnostics menu? Also, 5 ppm is high for a salt pool. Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display. Inspect the plates for calcification. Help???? whwn is on it works but once it goes int a new cycle it will not start to Chlorinate. All my lights are green but it doesnt appear to be making any chlorine. Salt reads 3300. I have a Hayward T-15 system. Back to Top. Thanks. Product name: AL – 0 16-34 1. When I unplug the salt cell plug from the control panel, all lights stay illuminated. Sorry for all the typos. You may need to wait for the number to settle. Of course it is not working at all and I have had to disconnect the power as it’s power and my pool pump power share the same on/off switch. Any thoughts on how to remedy? Find new replacement salt cells HERE. Hi I have an aqua plus system with T15 Cell, cell and main board have been replaced recently. Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? Get your water tested by a local pool company to confirm the salinity level. My board is telling me check salt, check cell. We’ve already checked the fuse and all is fine. Problem description: Amperage = 0, no chlorine generation. Something may have been reset in the control during the storm, either from a power outage or some other irregularity. Another things is that I am unable to display the voltage and current. The issue should be corrected by the new board. Unit installed in 2009. Later (today) the pool was green!!! Pump and everything else is working? i replaced main circuit board (GLX-PCB-RITE) last year and this year i put a brand T-15cell. If the ‘No Cell Power’ message remains, replace the cell. > Chlorine in pool remained zero and Superchlorinate indicator remained I looked at the flow sensor, it looks ok to me. My cell voltage on the cell reads 26.2 running and 32.4 off. Hayward Aqua Rite with T3 cell. Are there any alert lights? And have you done any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the guide? (The factory default is 2800 ppm). I guess my question is if there is a way to update the board to be able to work with a t-9? This is in the article and tells you things to check: Power LED Not On Very strange deal. Resoldered it, and works like a champ now. 5 10sec later a click is heard when he disconnects the cell from the controller he doesn’t get a “NO CELL” reading. The flow switch requires a minimum flow rate of 11 GPM to consistently stay closed. It could also be the cell needs to be cleaned or replaced. How to Reset Inspect Cell Light. Your chlorine is being burned off because there isn’t enough CYA to protect it from the sun. Only power and blinking no flow then it shuts down. What could be causing it to reset everyday? I ran diagnostics and it says my software version is 1.45. I am having the same problem did you ever find out what was wrong. So much appreciated for any suggestions, At the moment…Chlorine stabilizer was added and it started to work much better… Any resolution here? I mean, will the system work? Played around with the control panel and all the lights started working as normal, only the power and generating lights were On. Like I said all levels are within the ranges they should be brand new t 15 and controller set to t 15 any help would be appreciated. Replaced the fuse, and it came back until it tried to make chlorine. IF the Check Salt & Inspect Cell LEDs cleared, then the problem is solved. My Aquarite shows check salt, check cell lights on, reading was 700. … Inspect Cell LED will flash alone when the 500 operational hour timer has expired. Checked the panel again and it was set to T-5. If you flipped the breaker before changing out the cell, make sure you have flipped it back. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. A Hayward Salt Cell, on average seems to last about 5 years, but that obviously depends on usage. the the system shuts off. Thanks. Never have an issue, it is checked when lit, and cleaned when required. I would set it to 2 or 3. Thanks for getting back … cell t-15 is correctly selected on the display, and cell t-15 was cleaned about 4 weeks ago. Going by your description and the troubleshooting steps we list in the guide about this very situation, I think you need a new AquaRite Main PCB – GLX-PCB-RITE. my customer says the system does not read the salt level correctly. It starts to produce chlorine in about 15 minutes shuts off. what would cause that? 8 No LED’s/LCD display Pg. Is the cell bad? You can find it one of the ends of the cell, give it a few brushes with a toothbrush (preferably not one you plan on using) to get rid of any debris or scale build-up. Ted, did you get a solution. I’ve cleaned the cell, recalibrated the salt levels to match the salt levels from the pool store (3200ppm) and all my chemical levels are perfect. Remove the cell and clean per Hayward’s cleaning instructions (pages 18-20). It goes from the r1.45 to the salt reading. 5. > r 1.59 Is there anyone still there who is replying to comments and replies any more????? I had a new pool liner put in. > lit even after 12 hours. Is it a compatibility issue with the new salt cell? While generating the voltage (Voltage is actually 25.2 V). Thanks, Josh. What are the amps and volts values shown in the diagnostics menu on the panel? My Aquarite T-9 has a no flow light on, so its not producing. $549.99. This is more of an indicator light than anything else. The cell amperage is above the maximum limit. Our cya is between 0 and 30 and our manual states that 0 ppm is ideal. If it doesn’t work then you can drain and add fresh water pretty easily. Thanks! In the last part of the article we mention: Power LED Not On Any idea what is going on? Any ideas? We are having the same issue. The cell may be malfunctioning because the sensors and plates are caked with scale. I’m having the same issue. The CYA for a salt pool should be around 50-80, 0-30 is way too low. The salt reading is 900 and Instant salinity reads -3300. Do I need to upgrade my software? Customs services and international tracking provided +C $53.62 shipping. Yes, the current limiter can be replaced. Your email address will not be published. Then, check the input jumpers for the correct position. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Inspect cell led wont come on even if i remove the cell from control panel.so im concerned whether the circuit board has gone bad again. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO. I’ve replaced the circuit board, to no avail. AquaRite unit says salt is 3500, test strips and a separate tester show 2850. tried to recalibrate generator but the numbers flash by so quickly I cannot read them. t-3 cell. – configured for T-15 cell 1 Turn on power. Has there been heavy rain or pool parties recently? Wow, that was cheap! That sounds like a bad AquaRite display board. The factory default is 2800 ppm. The display board says I have 3500 salt but I have had it checked locally several times and it’s only about 2600. Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. The LED light should go out. It tells a lot about the health of the system. How To: Change Cell Type Follow these steps ONLY if Salt Chlorination is Enabled. As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Would appreciate any insight. Because it is autumn, if you are in a colder climate, chlorine does not get burned off like it normally would do in summer. Hayward Salt Generator Troubleshooting Hayward Salt System Reset . Now, press the Diagnostics button 5 times to display the Instant Salt level on the LCD screen. Amps and volts are good. Thank you sir. How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite. What gives? I think the “older than 2010 uses T15 is incorrect? thanks for your help. No lights at all on the display and it’s definitely not generating chlorine. Have you cleaned the cell since this problem has started? You will need either the PureLine AquaRite Replacement Display PCB Board or the OEM option GLX-PCB-DSP. 9-12 Low/High Cell temperature Pg. At the completion of the check, which is about 15 seconds, it shows “-0” and then it clicks, and all lights turn off. Then I just let it go until there is an actual cause for concern. You can also get into troubleshooting the wiring of your system to determine the specific issue, refer to the Hayward AquaRite Diagnostics Manual, Is there a relationship between: IF so, what did you do? If I just leave it on chlorinate, in a day or so I have no chlorine in my pool. > We’ve had the system working fine for three years. Thanks. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored. When pushing the diagnostic button it comes to a R 1.45 then back to salt number. That is a symptom of a bad display board and is not something that can be calibrated away. Hi Matt. The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating. The Swim pure says that the water already has 3500 salt but when I had it tested locally it only had 2400. 10). From the article section regarding cell amperage: I have an aqua rite system with only the green power light lit no matter where the switch is at. Hiya Matt! If I hold down the Display button for 10-10 seconds I do hear the relay reset, so I know the button and the board are working and the system is generating Chlorine. That then results in (1) the salt cell shuts down at some point during a filtration cycle due to a low salt reading or (2) on restart of the pump/filtration cycle, the salt cell fails to restart because the last instant salt reading was out of the specified range for operation. Find Hayward Salt Cell Troubleshooting. If you replace a TCELL3 with another TCELL3 (current part number W3T-CELL-3), then you should not need to make any changes to your control box.
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